Some career news: I’m now a food writer for Observer! I recently went to Mexico City to report on the meaningful menus by chef Pepe Salinas at Balcón del Zócalo. His artistic tastings are themed around social issues like climate collapse and women’s rights… I think you can see why I was drawn to his story!
Thanks for supporting my writing — read my Mexico City chef/restaurant feature here on Observer.
These vibrant photos are by Albert Ting of The Click Ting and @pootie_ting Instagram — so happy he accompanied me on the trip!
And watch the reel about my Balcón del Zócalo dining experience here on @LaCarmina Insta.
How gorgeous is this greenery-filled open air restaurant, located on the 6th floor of Zócalo Central Hotel?
I’m wearing a 100% mulberry silk cheongsam or qipao (traditional Chinese dress) by Beth and Brian Qipao. I’m transitioning to a nearly microplastics-free wardrobe, so this luxe floral design with a leg slit was perfect for a dinner to remember.
In my debut forObserver, I wrote about how Mexico City chef Pepe Salinas conveys a Mad Max future through fine dining. Imagine a five-star, nine-course dinner based on water scarcity… which references a Dune-like future of drinking our own urine to survive!
Every three months, chef Salinas and his R&D team create a new menu based on pressing (and sometimes divisive) topics of the day. This summer, Balcón del Zócalo’s tasting is based on Day Zero, the imminent doomsday when Mexico City’s reservoirs will run out of water.
Each course weaves in a story of The Collapse — which is happening now — through Salinas’ well-rounded flavors and textures. Trained as an artist, his dishes are works of art. This one is inspired by Lake Pátzcuaro, which is drying up due to human activity. The melon aguachile, corn toast and freeze-dried strawberries (as well as the custom plate) allude to the drought affecting the lake.
I love sardines, so this was a personal favorite… Salinas invites you to scrounge together a post-apocalyptic meal out of sardines in a glass can and dehydrated meat “crackers!” Talk about a delicious dystopian simulation.
Here, he addresses my current obsession: death by microplastics! Pepe Salinas designs and 3D prints tableware to perfectly fit his themes. The bread plate is made from discarded water bottle parts (photographer Albert Ting and I are still salivating over the incredible sourdough served at Balcon!)
The restaurant’s wine pairings bring out the umami of each dish. The Day Zero tasting isn’t all doom and gloom — it’s playful and showcases creative solutions, such as using hydroponics to grow crisp greens.
The chef is also an artist, and combines his passions by hand-drawing each menu (every guest gets to take home a copy). The tasting also involves going into the wine room for the starter (a meteorite candy with champagne and a tribute to the Aztec rain god), and later the kitchen to say hi to the team and have a palate cleanser.
I also got to visit Pepe Salinas’ experimental lab… Of course, I was drawn to this row of homemade skull liquors, and tried the one with a scorpion in it!
As I wrote in the Observer article: “Universal Flood encourages guests to simulate an eco-disaster by vigorously shaking the broth around a slab of buttery totoaba fish, causing beet gummy bears to bleed out red. Salinas focused on plant and marine ingredients—like a coconut soup with scallops, squid and spirulina that evokes life-giving amniotic fluid—to show that fine dining can be delectable and beautiful when resources are scarce.”
I smiled when the desserts came out with 3D printed axolotls (colorful, smiling endangered Mexican amphibians)!
Come watch the video footage of my dinner at Balcón del Zócalo here — you get to see the interactive elements of the tasting.
The video also gives you a tour of the magnificent restaurant, which is on the 6th floor of Zocalo Central Hoteles in Centro Historico, Mexico City.
Balcón del Zócalo’s name refers to its vast balcony overlooking the ancient square, which was originally an Aztec ceremonial space, and is now the site of the 16th-century National Palace and Metropolitan Cathedral.
Love the plants everywhere, and black and white tile floor. (My heels are Dream Pair Shoes.)
You can eat a marvelous breakfast by the balcony as well — we loved our stay in this classy hotel.
Stay at Hotel Centrales Zocalo for a boutique experience rich with character and history.
This hotel was made for me… the lobby was filled with skully elements! Photos by Albert Ting of The Click Ting / @pootie_ting on Instagram.
I adore Day of the Dead in Mexico, and the sugar skulls / spooky folklore surrounding the occasion. (See my 2019 blog about coming to CDMX around Halloween).
Cheers to Zocalo Central Hoteles for the fabulous hospitality.
The hotel and restaurant are located near Mexico City’s top museums, including the nearby Museo de Arte Popular. These towering calavera figures greeted us. Despite being dead, they’re still enjoying life to the max through song, dance, and fashion. (Sounds like some Goth friends of mine.)
Mexico City’s Museum of Popular Arts has several floors of folk art. My favorite exhibition featured Mexican devils of all sizes and shapes!
Such captivating detail in each of the horned masks.
These are humanized, comical versions of the Devil, who was introduced to the indigenous people of Mexico through Christian missionaries. Some of the works show Lucifer and his infernal court, while others show demons crying over losing their tails.
And of course, there were tons of skeletons hanging out at the museum.
Speaking of spookiness… we loved the vibe ofXaman Bar, which is inspired by ancient shaman culture! Find the hidden entrance and enter into a cavernous space filled with mysterious indigenous masks.
The menu is a Gothic dream — it references voodoo, tarot, and the occult. Of course, I went for the mezcal co*cktail on the top right, called “Goodbye to Evils,” which sends the Devil packing.
Xaman Bar incorporates traditional liquors and ingredients, and elements of shamanic ritual — like a fire and smoke performance.
Spend an evening at Xaman Bar for a taste of mixology withalchemy and ritual.
One of my favorite things to do in CDMX — check out contemporary art. We wandered into a Jan Hendrix “Atlas” exhibition at the downtown Palacio de Cultura Citibanamex, and were mesmerized both by the art and setting.
The Dutch artist’s large-scale works are inspired by biology and botany.
You must see Jan Hendrix’s art in person to get the full effect of the shimmering forms and colors, such as this interactive mirrored sculpture.
On my previous trip to Mexico’s capital, I also went to the Museum of Anthropology, Museo Soumaya, Templo Mayor and more — coverage here.
Also close to Central Hotels Zocalo — a David LaChapelle photography gallery. I’m sure you recognize the iconic images of Britney Spears and Marilyn Manson by the American photographer and music video director.
If there are only two things I can do in Mexico, it would be… eat inexpensive / street food (especially tacos), and buy over the counter tretinoin (anti-aging skin product)!
I was in my happy place eating $2 cachete (cheek) tacos at Los Cocuyos Taqueria (a fav of Anthony Bourdain) and Taqueria Arandas. I also adored the quesadillas and huaraches at street stall El Huarache Loco. And I went to Farmacia Similares to get ten tubes of tretinoin 0.05 cream for $2-3 each.
Thanks to everyone who made it possible for me to visit Mexico City and report on food, art, and travel.
I hope you enjoy my debut article published by Observer about the conversation-sparking restaurant Balcón del Zócalo.
For more from Mexico City and this dining adventure, watch my reel here — and add me on @LaCarmina IG for my latest travel and food adventures!
